Wee-Care Gown Smocking and Sewing Instructions

To Smock:

1. Pull out the pleating threads approximately inch on each side of the center back.
2. Pull the gathering threads up and block into circular shape as follows:
   1. The top two gathering threads should be tied off to the following neck measurements:

                                                               i.      Tiniest size (1-2 pounds) is 6 inches.

                                                             ii.      Small size (3-4 pounds) is 7 inches.

                                                            iii.      Preemie size (5-6 pounds) is 8 inches.

                                                           iv.      Newborn size (7-8 pounds) is 10 inches.

2. Fan out the gown in a circular shape and tie off the remaining gathering threads.
2. Smock, centering the design in front.  Backsmock the first row with one strand of floss in the same color as the gown fabric.  This backsmocked row will be used as a guide when applying the bias neckband.  Begin smocking the design on the second gathering row.  Use two strands of floss for smocking the design on the front of the gown.  The following colors have been suggested by the nurses at the hospitals:
   1. DMC #3325 (blue)      Susan Bates/Anchor 120/128
   2. DMC #818 (pink)        Susan Bates/Anchor 48
   3. DMC White or ecru     Susan Bates/Anchor White or ecru
3. Sleeves:  pull out the pleating threads inch on the smallest sizes and 3/4 inch on the larger sizes on each side of the underarm seam.  Tie off the pleating threads on the sleeves almost as tight as you can, leaving room to smock.
4. Remove all gathering threads except the top two at the neck edge.  These will be removed after the bias neckband has been attached.

Sewing:

1. Sew the side/underarm seams using inch seam allowance.  Serge close to the stitching.  OR  Use a narrow French seam to sew the side/underarm seam.  (With the wrong sides together, sew 1/8 inch wide seam; trim "fuzzies" from the edge, press seam and fold with right sides together, sew 1/8 inch wide seam.)
2. Finish the center back opening by folding it under once on the selvage edges.  The left side should be folded back even with the smocking.  On the right side, fold it under only half of the unsmocked fabric to create a small underlap.
3. Finish the neck edge with the bias strip:  The top gathering row should be backsmocked; trim any uneven edges above backsmocking.  With right sides together, pin the bias strip to the garment, matching center of the bias strip to center front of gown, and having " of the bias strip extending past each side of the center back.  Pull the gathering thread up to adjust the garment to fit the bias strip.  Stitch inch from the neck edge.  Check to be sure the seam is an even distance from the first row of smocking and fix any unevenness.  Turn the ends of the bias strip under; turn the bias strip to the wrong side of the garment, enclosing the raw edge.  Fold under the edge of bias strip and slipstitch to inside.   Finished neck measurement (center back to center back) should be:
   1. Newborn 10"
   2. Preemie 8"
   3. Small 6 1/2"
   4. Tiny 5 1/2"
   5. Extra Tiny 4 3/4 "

4. Sew the small plastic snaps to close the center back. Put one snap at the neck and the other about two inches lower.
5. Hem allowance for gown is 1 inch.  Serge the raw edge of the gown and sew a 1-inch deep hem (can use the blind stitch on machine).  If the raw edge is not serged, turn it under one-quarter inch on the raw edge and then sew a 1" deep hem.

Thank you for your help!

Dogwood Chapter

Smocking Arts Guild of America